Как обозначается спирт в составе косметических средств. Вопрос к косметологу: стоит ли бояться алкоголя в составе кремов? Хорошие и плохие спирты в косметике

Действительно ли алкоголь в составе косметических средств вызывает раздражение и сушит кожу? Мы спросили у специалистов, есть ли реальная угроза для здоровья

Д ля начала давайте вспомним о двух ключевых компонентах любого крема — масле и воде. Что бы было с консистенцией вашего любимого крема, не будь в его составе алкоголя, более известного в косметическом мире как этиловый спирт? В настоящий момент существует много консервантов и стабилизаторов, благодаря которым в вашей баночке однородная стабильная эмульсия, а не рыхлые комочки, плавающие в собственном соку. Спирт один из них! Это сравнительно недорогой ингредиент, который также предотвращает размножение бактерий в косметическом продукте.

В лигу «вселенского зла» он попал за то, что активно растворяет липиды с поверхности кожи. Так она теряет защитные функции и зарабатывает серьезный риск получить раздражение и обезвоживание. В косметической промышленности используется несколько видов спиртов, каждый из которых выполняет свою функцию. Оказывается, существуют так называемые «хорошие» и «плохие» спирты.

Так ли страшен спирт, как его малюют?

Всегда ли содержание спирта в составе крема грозит нам тем самым обезвоживанием или раздражением? Чтобы ответить на этот вопрос, нам пришлось сперва разобраться, какие же виды спиртов относят к «нехорошим». Мы не ожидали, но там набрался целый boys band из плохишей: алкоголь (аlcohol), этанол (ethanol), этиловый спирт (ethyl alcohol), денатурированный алкоголь (SD alcohol или alcohol denat) и его вариации; изопропанол (isopropanol), изопропиловый спирт или ИПС (isopropyl alcohol или IPA), метанол (methanol), метиловый спирт (methyl alcohol), бензиловый спирт (benzyl alcohol). Эти ребята действуют на кожу крайне агрессивно, сушат и обезвоживают ее, разрушают защитный слой, расширяют кровеносные сосуды, повышая чувствительность кожи.

Несмотря на это, этиловый спирт (ethyl alcohol или ethanol) является одним из наиболее распространенных видов алкоголя, используемых в косметике и не только: он также встречается в топливе, алкогольных напитках, медицинских средствах и т.д. Этиловый спирт хорошей очистки реже вызывает раздражение кожи. Как вы уже знаете, алкоголь в косметике в большинстве случаев денатурирован, т.е. в него добавлен денатурант, что дает ему горький привкус. В основном это сделано для того, чтобы люди (особенно дети) не смогли выпить косметический продукт со спиртом. В составах косметики такой денатурированный ингредиент указан как SD Alcohol или Alcohol Denat.

Путем спиртового брожения органических продуктов (зерна, картофеля, кукурузы, сахарного тростника) получают спирт — этанол. Также его можно получить синтетическим путем через гидратацию этилена, этот способ сейчас имеет большое промышленное распространение. Некоторые косметологи утверждают, что этанол участвует в метаболических процессах, поэтому спокойно воспринимается нашим организмом и риска получить реакции на него практически нет. В отличие от этанола (который может быть произведен натуральным способом), такие спирты как метанол (или метиловый спирт), бензиловый спирт, изопропиловый спирт производятся лишь синтетически и отличаются большой токсичностью.

Существует и другая группа так называемых «хороших» или «жирных спиртов». Они обладают совершенно отличными от этанола свойствами и используются в косметике в качестве эмульгаторов для смешивания водной и масляной фазы, а также в качестве загустителей. Благодаря им крем обретает насыщенную текстуру, которую мы так любим.

К таким спиртам относятся цетеариловый спирт (cetearyl alcohol), стеариловый спирт (stearyl alcohol) и цетиловый спирт (cetyl alcohol). Жирные спирты не сушат кожу в отличие от этанола, а их свойства могут быть даже полезными, поскольку имеют способность кондиционировать кожу и волосы. Жирные спирты из этой группы получают из растительного сырья, например из кокоса или из пальмы. При комнатной температуре они представляют собой твердую воскообразную субстанцию чуть желтоватого оттенка. Для составления косметической формулы их специально растапливают. Люди с самой чувствительной кожей хорошо воспринимают жирные спирты, поэтому именно такие спирты можно встретить в составах косметики для чувствительной кожи.

Елена Хавкина, врач-косметолог клиники пластической хирургии и косметологии «Арт-клиник»

В состав кремов алкоголь не входит. Слово Alcohol на этикетках переводится как спирт. А спирты бывают разные, в том числе многоатомные. К алкоголю они никакого отношения не имеют. Например, цетеариловый спирт — это белое воскообразное твердое вещество в форме хлопьев. Оно растворимо в жирах, но практически не растворимо в воде. Это смесь жирных спиртов, цетилового и стеарилового.

Спирт в таком виде вовсе не перебродившая смесь, а химическое вещество с определенной молекулярной структурой, основанной на углероде, водороде и кислороде. Жирные спирты получают из жиров и масел путем гидролиза, продуктом которого являются жирные кислоты. Их гидрируют до жирных спиртов. Наиболее рациональный способ получения жирных спиртов — из растительных масел. Цетеариловый спирт — эмульгатор. В кремах и лосьонах он поддерживает эмульсию в стабильном состоянии и обеспечивает продукту его текстуру. В кондиционерах он создает загущающий эффект. Бояться такого спирта в составе кремов не стоит. Обычно мы используем его в концентрациях около 1%. Такой спирт комбинируется с другими компонентами рецептуры (такими как триэтаноламин и стеариновая кислота), формируя эмульсию. Это предотвращает расслоение смеси на воду и масло, делая эмульсию масла в воде густой и мягкой. Главное, он поддерживает стабильное состояние консистенции и обладает влагоудерживающим эффектом.

Елена Михалевич, косметолог-эстетист в салоне красоты Jean Louis David в ТЦ «Гименей»

Если говорить об алкоголе и спиртосодержащих веществах в кремах, то их не стоит опасаться. Спирт является натуральным консервантом по сравнению с парабенами и другими синтетическими консервантами, которые вызывают раздражение и контактный дерматит. Он помогает проникать активным компонентам кремов внутрь кожи, делая липидный барьер более проницаемым.

Спирт в составе жирных и питательных компонентов испаряется и таким образом уменьшает жирность на коже, делая крем на ощупь мягким. Жирные спирты получают из кокоса и пальмового масла. Такие спирты используются в качестве загустителей, которые не позволяют распадаться кремам на фракции, делая текстуру крема плотной. Но если в составе крема содержится денатурированный, метиловый спирты, их следует использовать с осторожностью, так как они обладают раздражающим действием на клетки кожи.

Выслушав мнения специалистов, вывод напросился сам собой. Во-первых, спирт спирту рознь и опасаться его в составе косметических продуктов (в частности кремов) стоит, только если он из группы агрессивных вредных спиртов. Так как они действительно сушат и обезвоживают кожу, разрушая защитный липидный слой. Во-вторых, если вы видите на этикетке слово alcohol, то это вовсе не значит, что крем будет сушить вашу кожу. Не спешите отказываться от него, ведь все дело в концентрации тех или иных игредиентов. Вполне возможно, что в ваш крем входит безобидный 1% спиртовой водный раствор. В-третьих, если вы покупаете не крем, а, скажем, тоник или гель для умывания, то стоит проверить, на каком месте в их составе стоит спирт. Если на первом месте у них окажется вода, а спирт на втором, то лучше голосовать рублем в пользу иного продукта. Иначе вы рискуете получить раздражение на коже.

ALCOHOL — это спирт. CETEARYL ALCOHOL — цетиловый и цетеариловый спирты. Цетиловый и цетеариловый спирты — одноатомные спирты с числом атомов углерода соответственно 18 и 16/18 (последний представляет собой физическую смесь углеродных цепочек с числом атомов 16 и 18). Служат структурообразователями и эмолентами в эмульсиях (смягчитель). Такие спирты могут иметь натуральное или синтетическое происхождение. В косметике используются как растворитель, эмульгатор, загуститель, структурная основа для других ингредиентов.

В косметике CETEARYL ALCOHOL применяется для:

  • Уменьшения количество образующейся пены, либо полностью предотвращают ее появление. Применяется в основном в кремах и бальзамах для волос.
  • Активные ингредиенты в противомикробных препаратах.
  • Добавляют для стягивания пор или как кровоостанавливающие.
  • Натуральные или синтетические вещества, придающие косметике приятный запах.
  • Используются для растворения и смешивания ингредиентов между собой.
  • Увеличивают текучесть косметики без существенного понижения концентрации активных компонентов.
  • Используют для растворения ингредиентов в косметике.

Возможные негативные последствия использования в косметике: может стать причиной появления раздражения на коже, аллергии, дерматитов.

  • Цветовые палитры для и цветотипов

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Наличие спирта в косметике можно определить по надписям Ethanol, Alcohol .

Если спирт указан в начале списка ингредиентов, то косметика может нанести вред жирной, проблемной, склонной к появлению прыщей коже, поскольку оказывает подсушивающее действие и стимулирует выделение кожного сала. Если же спирт стоит в конце списка ингредиентов, он быстро испарится с поверхности кожи и не окажет на нее негативного влияния.

FDA считает спирт безопасным веществом и позволяет его использовать в безрецептурных антимикробных лекарственных препаратах, косметике и парфюмерии.

Свойства спирта, применяемые в косметике и парфюмерии:

Летучее . Спирт ускоряет впитывание в кожу крема, легко испаряясь при этом с поверхности кожи.

Консервирующее . Спирт легко растворяет в себе эфирные масла, концентрируя их запахи и сохраняя их стойкость продолжительное время, поэтому этиловый спирт нашел применение в производстве духов.

Противовоспалительное . Спирт обладает дезинфицирующими, антисептическими, подсушивающими свойствами, убивает большинство микробов и многие виды бактерий, хотя бессилен против вирусов и грибов, в небольших дозах помогает бороться с угревой сыпью.

В медицине спирт нашел применение как дезинфицирующее средство, консервант настоек и растительных экстрактов, растворитель для лекарственных средств. В народной медицине этиловый спирт применяют для согревающих компрессов и растираний при бронхите, для охлаждающих обертываний при высокой температуре тела.

Косметику со спиртом хранят в плотно закрывающихся флаконах и упаковках, поскольку этиловый спирт - очень летучий и при окислении теряет свои свойства.

В какой косметике встречается спирт?

  • духи, аэрозольные дезодоранты, одеколоны
  • крем для лица и тела
  • лосьоны
  • тоники
  • средства для ухода за проблемной кожей
  • декоративная косметика
  • ополаскиватели для полости рта
  • шампунь
  • гель для душа
  • зубная паста
  • средства для бритья

Применение косметики со спиртом нежелательно:

  • при повышенной жирности кожи
  • при гиперчувствительности кожи

Что такое спирт применяемый в косметологии?

Спирт (этиловый спирт, алкоголь, этанол, винный спирт) - горючая, летучая, прозрачная, бесцветная жидкость, действующий компонент алкогольных напитков, лекарственных препаратов, косметических средств.

По мнению ученых, первое упоминание о веществе, похожем на спирт своими свойствами, встречается в Ветхом Завете, когда Ной опьянел от случайно выпитого перебродившего фруктового сока. С тех пор винокурение стало стремительно развиваться, однако чистый этиловый спирт был получен только в эпоху Средневековья.

Итальянцы в 11 веке изобрели дистиллятор, через который стали пропускать вино. В процессе нагревания выделялся пар и конденсат, названный spiritus vini (дух вина) и давший современное название веществу - спирт.

Долгое время спирт использовали исключительно для опытов и парфюмерных надобностей, поскольку люди обнаружили, что большинство пахучих субстанций легко растворяются в спирте, надолго сохраняя при этом свой запах. Но в 16 веке Парацельс открыл, что соединение спирта с парами серной кислоты дает усыпляющий эффект - так был изобретен наркоз. Позднее смесь спирта и эфира стали применять для получения бездымного пороха. Во всем мире производство спирта, который назвали этиловым из-за содержания в нем органических соединений - этанов, возрастало в дни военных действий и резко сокращалось после их окончания. А вот в России во время войн спирт практически не производили, но в мирное время его производство возобновлялось в значительных масштабах.

Постепенно этиловый спирт разделили на технический (производство топлива, резины, пластмасс и пр.) и пищевой (для нужд медицины, косметологии, парфюмерии, пищевой промышленности).

Откуда берут спирт для косметики и парфюмерии?

Известны два способа производства спирта: спиртовое брожение и гидратация этилена (газа, получаемого при переработке углеводородного сырья).

Промышленное получение спирта микробиологическим способом включает следующие стадии:

  1. Измельчение сырья (виноградных ягод, разных плодов, крахмалистых сортов зерна, кукурузы, картофеля);
  2. Ферментация (расщепление крахмала до сахаров с помощью бактерий и дрожжевых грибков);
  3. Сбраживание (накопление спирта);
  4. Ректификация (отделение чистого этилового спирта от примесей).

В результате перегонки получают бесцветную летучую жидкость с характерным запахом и жгучую на вкус. Спирт является отличным универсальным растворителем органических веществ, а сам он при этом легче воды.

Спирт (алкоголь) – один из ингредиентов косметических составов, который часто попадает в немилость и вызывает массу споров у пользователей. По этой причине вопрос, нужен ли спирт в косметической композиции, всегда остается открытым. Однако специалисты расходятся во мнениях и не могут дать однозначного ответа в этом вопросе. Одни рекомендуют избегать всех препаратов, в состав которых входит спирт, а другие советуют избегать его определенного вида, а прочие смело использовать. Давайте узнает, чем опасен спирт в косметических продуктах и как он может навредить нашей коже.

Если спирт считается вредным для кожного покрова, то зачем производители добавляют его в косметический состав? Ведь его можно найти не только в составе продуктов масс- маркета, но и в косметике класса – люкс, фармацевтике, и даже в профессиональной косметике.

Зачем его добавляют в тоники и гели для очищения? Какую роль он там выполняет?

  1. Очень часто его вносят в продукт в качестве натурального консерванта. Он может заменить пресловутые парабены, вокруг которых не утихает спор и ажиотаж. К тому же парабены являются аллергенами, которые вызывают повышенную чувствительность организма. В этом плане алкоголь намного безопасней.
  2. Также его добавляют в линию для жирного тона. Испаряясь, он уменьшает жирность кожи, делая густые масляные средства легкими и приятными по ощущениям.
  3. Он помогает проникать активным веществам из крема в глубинные слои кожи. Как это происходит? Он делает кожный барьер проницаемый и позволяет активным веществам проникать сквозь него глубоко в дерму. В химических препаратах это происходит за счет гликоли, а в органической косметике благодаря алкоголю.
  4. Также алкоголь выполняет роль растворителя. Он разбавляет композицию и расщепляет гидрофобные молекулы.
  5. Смешивает две разные субстанции, что делает его эмульгатором.
  6. Нормализует рН- выполняет роль буфера.
  7. Способствует дезинфекции косметической композиции, выполняет роль антисептика.
  8. Нейтрализует развитие нежелательных реакций и препятствует расслоению косметической композиции. В этом случае он выступает как стабилизатор.
  9. Подавляет рост бактерий и микроорганизмов- выполняет функцию консерванта.
  10. Улучшает проницаемость кожного покрова, доставляет активные ингредиенты глубоко в дерму.
  11. Фиксирует аромат косметических средств.

Итак, можно сказать, что для многих производителей алкоголь является универсальным компонентом, который выполняет целый перечень важных функций.

Виды алкоголя в косметике


Asian woman shopping in the store cosmetics

Большинство женщин считают этот продукт вредным, поскольку он сушит и стягивает кожу, раздражает ее и разрушает ее защитный слой. Это мнение, с одной стороны, является верным, однако все зависит от вида алкоголя и его количества в продукте. Сам по себе алкоголь бывает разных видов и характеризуется разными свойствами.

Итак, спирт – это сложная молекула, которая обладает одной или несколькими гидроксильными группами (с окончаниями –ОН).

Так вот, его характеристики обуславливаются количеством – ОН и базовой молекулой, к которой эти самые – ОН прикрепляются.

Существует три основных разновидностей спирта, которые используются в косметике:

  • простые;
  • ароматические;
  • жирные.


Давайте рассмотри каждый вид и узнаем, в чем его вред или польза.

Простые

Данный вид используется, как дезинфицирующее средство (антисептик). Его использую для придания продукту антибактериального свойства, а получают в результате сбраживания разных углеводов, в том числе крахмала и сахара. По своей консистенции очень напоминает воду.

К простой группе относятся:

  • этанол;
  • денатурированный;
  • метанол;
  • изопропиловый.

Данную группу алкоголя в большом количестве используют в уходовой косметике, поскольку ее представители выполняют следующие функции:

  • растворяют ингредиенты;
  • обладают стягивающими свойствами (кратковременно сужают поры);
  • улучшают проницаемость кожи (в результате разрушения верхнего слоя эпидермиса), помогают ей впитывать ингредиенты из косметической субстанции, поэтому их часто добавляют в увлажняющие кремы;
  • обладают антисептическими свойствами (используются как консерванты, поскольку замещают парабены).

Однако все эти положительные свойства простых спиртов оборачиваются большим вредом при их продолжительном использовании. Как они влияют на кожный покров и что именно с ним происходит?

  1. В первую очередь – сильно раздражают и сушат эпидермис. Они буквально разрушают поверхностный кислотный слой оболочки эпидермиса, тем самым обезвоживая его. Это приводит к раздражению и быстрому появлению ранних морщин, а также к кожным заболеваниям –контактному дерматиту.
  2. Разрушают липидный барьер кожного покрова. Наша кожа имеет естественную защиту, благодаря чему она защищена от негативного воздействия окружающей среды. Алкоголь разрушает это барьер, делает эпидермис беззащитным и уязвимым для бактерий, аллергенов, вирусов и раздражителей.
  3. Ухудшают состояние кожи, склонной к акне и угревой сыпи. Очень часто алкоголь входит в состав препаратов для жирной кожи, поскольку он ее матирует и обеззараживает. Однако этот эффект не имеет пролонгированного действия. Также, помимо воздействия на угри и акне, алкоголь сушит и раздражает кожу, а жирный тон на такой раздражитель отвечает еще более усиленной выработкой кожного сала. И получается замкнутый круг: вещество, которое должно устранить проблему, провоцирует его выработку.

Этанол (этиловый)


Выполняет следующие функции:

  • фиксатора аромата;
  • растворителя;
  • подсушивающего препарата;
  • антисептика;
  • консерванта.

Данный вид алкоголя способствует быстрому впитыванию крема в кожу и также быстро испаряется с ее поверхности. Благодаря этому свойству используется в производстве духов. При местном нанесении на кожный покров выполняет роль энхансера (увеличивает проникновение препарата в кожу) и способствует поглощению ксенобиотиков (чужеродных химических веществ). Очень быстро растворяет кожное сало и высушивает кожу, но и сам быстро улетучивается с поверхности эпидермиса. Его оценка – неудовлетворительная.

Денатурированный

Выполняет функции:

  • антисептика;
  • консерванта;
  • растворителя;
  • пеногасителя.

В смываемых очищающих препаратах выступает в качестве растворителя. Входит в состав шампуней, ополаскивателей для волос, кремов после бритья и лосьонов. Бывает натурального происхождения, без примесей. Иногда заменяет этиловый спирт и является безопасным в определенной концентрации. Опасен только неочищенный вид технического происхождения. Обладает удовлетворительной оценкой при использовании в косметике.


Изопропиловый

Выступает в качестве:

  • пеногасителя;
  • парфюмерного ингредиента;
  • растворителя;
  • консерванта.

Используется как растворитель в очищаемых и смываемых косметических продуктах: кремах после бритья, ополаскивателях и лосьонах. Может выступать в качестве заменителя этилового спирта. Оценка- неудовлетворительная.

Ароматические

Бывают двух видов:

  • циннамиловый;
  • бензиловый.

Циннаминовый

Выступает в качестве ароматизатора в парфюмерной композиции. Является летучим ароматизатором с нюансами корицы, способен сильно обезводить и высушить кожный покров. Его использование в косметической композиции – нежелательно.

Бензиловый

Выполняет функцию консерванта. Этот спирт имеет органическое происхождение и встречается во многих фруктах и чае. Его высокое содержание придает продукту существенный цветочный аромат, поскольку он входит в состав некоторых эфирных масел (например, жасминового). В минимальных количествах его использование в косметике считается безопасным, однако его избыток может вызвать сильное раздражение. В целом его использование считается удовлетворительным.

Жирные

Эти вещества по своей сути являются спиртами, однако существенно отличаются воздействием на кожу и внешним видом. Они не обезвоживают и не высушивают эпидермис, наоборот отличаются мягким смягчающим действием и препятствуют испарению влаги (оказывают окклюзионное действие). Они характеризуются густой восковой текстурой, а некоторые имеют твердое состояние. Делают продукт бархатистым и мягким, а также придают ему приятное скольжение по поверхности эпидермиса.

К таким спиртам относятся:

  • каприловый;
  • лауриловый;
  • цетеариловый;
  • бегениловый;
  • стеариловый и др.

Они применяются в качестве:

  • загустителей,
  • эмульгаторов;
  • смягчающих препаратов.

Наиболее эффективными и в то же время безопасными считаются:

Лаурил Лаурат

Считается лучшим веществом из этой категории. Отлично смягчает и улучшает консистенцию средства. Он помогает активным веществам лучше впитаться в кожу, усиливает их проникновение, считается самым безопасным веществом в составе косметической композиции.

Стеариловый

Используется как эмульгатор, консервант, смягчающее вещество и загуститель. Способствует смягчению кожного покрова. Оценка – удовлетворительная.

Стеарил Стеарат

Оказывает смягчающее и окклюзионное действие, отлично увлажняет и улучшает консистенцию косметического средства. Это природный воск, который изготавливают из жирных кислот совместно с синтетическими жирными спиртами.

Также, как это ни странно, существует множество знакомых нам компонентов кремов, которые также относятся к спиртам:

  • пантенол (отличное средство, являющееся витамином для кожи);
  • фитосфингозин (является отличным консервантом, хорошо питает и регенерирует усталый и атоничный кожный покров);
  • глицерин (выступает в качестве эмульгатора и растворителя, отлично увлажняет эпидермис).

Как обозначается алкоголь на этикетке крема


  1. Этиловый – Ethyl Alcohol,Alcohol, Ethanol.
  2. Жирные – Stearyl alcohol, Сetyl alcohol, Сetearyl alcohol.
  3. Изопропиловый – Isopropyl alcohol, Propyl alcohol.
  4. Денатурированный спирт – Alcohol Denat, SD Alcohol, SD Alcohol 40.
  5. Ароматический бензиловый – Benzyl Alcohol

Определить точное содержание алкоголя в креме практически невозможно, ведь этих обозначений на этикетке нет. Но поскольку все компоненты крема представлены в убывающем порядке, то, можно сказать, что продукт в основном состоит из первых шести компонентов. Все компоненты представлены от самой высокой концентрации до самой низкой. В то же время, если алкоголь входит в шестерку первых компонентов это не значит, что он обязательно обезводит, стянет или высушит кожу. В состав кремов всегда входят жирные смягчающие ингредиенты, которые препятствуют обезвоживанию и сухости. А вот наличие в препарате жесткого алкоголя можно почувствовать сразу, поскольку он обеспечивает охлаждающий эффект за счет быстрого испарения. Следует полностью избегать препаратов, которые предназначены для подростковой проблемной кожи. Как правило, в них очень высокое содержание простого спирта, поскольку он предназначен для подсушивания угрей, прыщей, и матирования кожного покрова. При долгом употреблении таких средств развивается раздражение и нарушается липидный барьер эпидермиса.

Вывод

Стоит опасаться метанола, этанола и изопропилового, то есть – простых спиртов. Аккуратно относиться к денатурированному. Не бояться бензилового и всех жирных, которые были названы в этой статье.

Так или иначе бояться спирта не стоит, надо определить его вид и узнать его характеристики.

Таким образом, встречая на этикетке слово Alcohol прежде всего надо разобраться, какой из них представлен в средстве и только потом решать, покупать средство или нет. Ну а если даже это вас смущает, то необходимо обратить внимание на производителя, репутация и качество будет говорить в пользу безопасного продукта.

"И все бы ничего, но средство содержит спирт!" - вещают нам популярные блогеры и производители натуральной косметики. На этом месте нам полагается испугаться, отодвинуть баночку крема и находить у себя признаки высушенной кожи. Знакомо? Мне лично знакомо. Хотя бы потому что слово "спирт" как таковое вызывает одну реакцию: в памяти всплывает только бутылка ядреного 96% спирта, который выжигает все, что может выжечь. Да, увы, для обозначения всех "страшных", на наш вгляд, ингредиентов не придумали никакого более красивого слова, как "спирты". И даже Цетил, Изопропил, Стеарил, Бензил, Денатурат звучат аналогично угрожающе.



Поэтому сегодня будем разбираться, что же за спирты существуют и используются в нашей косметике, почему их не стоит опасаться, и что нас ждет. Речь будет идти только о взрослых и подростках.

Итак, есть три "спиртовые группы", которые используются при производстве:

1. Ароматические спирты (Benzyl Alcohol) : они используются чаще всего в качестве консервантов, т.е. сохраняют ваш крем свежим на протяжение всего срока годности. И предотвращают размножение бактерий (привет, любители залезать в крем руками!). Это НАТУРАЛЬНЫЙ консервант, который гораздо более безопасен, чем остальные, которые могут вызывать и дерматит, и кожные раздражения.

2. Простые спирты (Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Ethanol, Denat Alcohol, Butylene Glycol) : как правило, это спирты, которые используются для того, чтобы создать определенную консистенцию продукта, дезинфицировать, а также - усилить проникающую способность средства в кожу. Как они ее усиливают? Растворяют липидный слой кожи - разумеется, не подчистую, но защитный барьер снижают. Это самый "неугодный" тип спирта в косметике, на который набрасываются все кому не лень.

3. Жирные спирты (Cetearyl-, Cetyl- и Stearyl Alcohol), которые получают из растительных масел, прежде всего кокосового. Эти спирты, наоборот, смягчают кожу и работают как масла. В косметике они используются еще и для того, чтобы придать текстуру кремам или выступают в виде ПАВов. Эти спирты могут считаться безопасными даже для сухой кожи.

Итак, главные функции спиртов: дезинфекция, придание текстуры, сохранение свежести, смягчение кожи, уменьшение чувства жирности на коже после использования кремов, лучшее проникновение средства в кожу.

Где лучше избегать спиртов, а где их можно и нужно использовать?

Так как спирт обладает способностью растворять с поверхности кожи липиды, он делает кожный барьер более проницаемым. Если это пенка для умывания или тоник, то старайтесь избегать средств с простыми спиртами. Они замешаны на воде, а в воде свойства спирта проявляются сильнее. Поэтому есть риск, что он будет высушивать вам кожу. Что же касается кремов или других средств на масляной основе - их вы можете использовать без страха за свою кожу. Кроме того, имейте в виду, что например салициловая кислота (BHA-кислоты, так нами любимые) не работает без спирта. Просто не работает, не функционирует и не помогает.

Какая концентрация спирта безопасна для кожи?

Это самая больная тема в мире косметики. Производители всегда указывают ингредиенты в порядке их убывания, однако никто не пишет, сколько % об общего состава занимает спирт. Кроме того, никто не пишет, что это? Ведь спиртом может называться не только 96% чистый ингредиент, но и совершенно безобидный однопроцентный растворчик! Поэтому ни на глаз, ни по этикетке получить точные данные не получится - ни у одного производителя ни в одной стране. Однако есть небольшой лайфхак - если спирт входит в первую тройку, то его концентрация не превышает 5% (если это жирный спирт, то он полностью безопасен, если простой - то людям с сухой и чувствительной кожей надо подумать). А если он стоит на четвертом или последующих местах - то содержание его не превышает 2%, а это ничтожно мало. Это почти ничего. Такие продукты можно брать смело.

Другие страшилки про спирт

Спирт проникает в кровь и вызывает интоксикацию.

Он может проникать в кровь, но чтобы произошло отравление - необходимо втирать в кожу каждый день чистый раствор 96% спирта. В тех концентрациях, в которых он содержится в косметике, он повлияет на вас ровно в той степени, которую принято называть - "НИКАК".

Спирт может вызывать рак кожи

В Германии проводились исследования, которые доказали, что нет абсолютно никакой четкой связи между раком кожи и спиртом в косметике.

Спирт для жирной кожи - в каких средствах он нужен?

Давайте еще раз кратко подведем итоги: при лечение акне и воспалений он НЕ нужен в умывалках и тониках, но только если тоник не содержит BHA-кислоту. Спирт нужен во всех противопрыщевых средствах с BHA: падах, пилингах, кремах, эмульсиях (с ним они РАБОТАЮТ). Спирт нужен в креме (чтобы сохранять его свежим, смягчать кожу). Спирт нужен в локальных лечащих средствах (наклейки, устраняющие прыщи, специальные локальные двухфазные пудры).

Как выглядит идеальное лечение прыщей и жирной кожи? Это нейтральная умывалка, тонер без спирта, пилинг пады с BHA кислотой, локальные противопрыщевые средства, и увлажняющие продукты: эмульсии, кремы.

Как видите, в спирте нет ничего особенно страшного, если обращать внимание на его состав, вид спирта и вид самого средства. Поэтому пользуйтесь на здоровье, и красивой вам кожи.